The Bosphorous boat trip seemed to drag on forever, but I can now say that I've been on the Asian continent, seen an authentic Turkish dance, palaces of powerful men long dead and vacation homes of the living which I never hope to afford. I managed to meander back through the city without using the tram, through sheer dumb luck, brought me through the spice bazaar, textile bazaar and grand bazaar. I could not plan it better if I tried. It was good to see the grand bazaar a second time, because there is a religious holiday today and for the next four days that shuts down the grand bazaar. I went from chamber to chamber of treasure stacked from floor to coiffured ceiling. The fakes were so good, only the most scrutinous of buyers could deliniate between imposter and the genuine article. I went into one run down shop and laughed flaberghastedly as the salesman replied to my price inquiry on a Tag Heur Grand Carrera Chronograph. "7,000 US" he proclaimed without flinching. I managed to navigate the merchant labyrinth in time for the 7pm daily prayer. The droning religious call resonated throughout the city, projected by speakers atop minarets in every direction. The call changed in pitch and wording, but had a continuity to it for several minutes without pause. The first time I heard it, my gut reaction was danger, due in part to many western movies, cultural ignorance and language barrier. I rounded the corner to the nearest mosque. In a moment of curiosity and the realization that I had not stepped foot into a church in excess of four years, I took my shoes off and stepped to the front of the procession as the seremony was just beginning. I knelt, mimicking the actions of those to my left and right, bowing my head in respectful silence. I did not know the words and stuck out like a sore thumb but I enjoyed the cultural symbolism embued through this ritual. We all were equal bowing our headed to the ground before Allah, constant prayer is a reminder of why we are here. If you are not religious, such as myself it is a nice time to reflect on the people, events, ideas and purposes in your life. I support this cultural ritual, its social messsage and philosophical ideal.
It was a long 6 months, I traveled around the world, I made some amazing new friends, saw things I never thought I would. Now it's time to buckle down, enjoy being normal and staying in one place; the harmony of finding beauty in the routine, enjoying being inside and being at peace with my role in humanity. I do this reinvigorated and with a new perspective colored by the experiences precedent to it. No more traveling... for now.
Friday, October 26, 2012
Monday, October 22, 2012
Istanbul, Turkey
And now for the main event, as they say.Istanbul, Turkey. I am excited to visit The Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, The Golden Mile, The Bazaar, The Western District and everything else this city has to offer. I will meet Mehmet, Erkan's relative at the airport when I land at 7pm tonight. I am staying with his family which will be a nice departure from Hostel living, as good as it has been.
Here are photos from my brief jaunt around the city and photos from Erkan's office as well as the place that I'm staying, above a rug shop down the street.
Previously :
Bus 72, on the way to Nikolae Tesla Airport, I meet an interesting figure. His name is Kerwin McKenzie, an expert travel blogger and concierge. He may be from Chicago but is accent and mannerism seem foriegn, he is very nice and knowledgeable about the city we are leaving. He explains that he is trying to promote travel to Belgrade and describes his surly interactions with the tourism office. I explain a similar experience in which I was certain that someone didn't speak English until I pressed the matter speaking slowly and utilizing gestures. We laugh at the overly-serious disposition of Slavic people. I remind him of the war in 1999. He reminds me that was 13 years ago.
Friday, October 19, 2012
Belgrade, Serbia
Update 2: I went back to the museum in the daytime with Katharina, what a difference! More photos
Update:
Rather than go through Bulgaria to Istanbul by bus, I'm going to fly out on Monday afternoon from Nikolae Tesla airport. Two more nights in Belgrade. But seriously, this place reminds me of a hodgepodge between San Francisco and Sacramento.
Rakija and cevapi at dinner on the Skadarlije street started to feel like self-hazing, so I headed to Union Square, the place with the big horse in the middle and then on to the battery's military museum. Aside from not being able to read Cyrillic characters, I feel at home. -Oh, and I found a fire juggler!
Wednesday, October 17, 2012
Budva, Montenegro
Update: I spent a day at the beach in a cutty alcove to the left of a large resort, beautiful.
The bus crusied along the coastline chasing the sunset. Down below a white pearl of a boat, a luxury cruiseliner sits waiting for smaller ferryboats amid a jewel blue sea. I am headed to montenegro, one of the youngest countries in the EU, also one I know the least about. Roya and Shelby caught a flight to Seville yesterday and my options for arriving in my destinstion, Turkey, were go through impoverished, inland, Bosnia and see the bridge in Mostar or continue my coastal path; I elected to do the latter. I am accompanied by an Aussie named Alex whom happened to be staying in the same hostel in Dubrovnik.